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Old 02-19-2002   #1
89GTA
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removeing engine from tranny

ok... im ready to remove my engine, but im not quite sure how many bolts there are. and the bolts cant seem to come off because they bump into the torque converter (on the underside of the car) either im unscrewing the wrong bolts or im doing something wrong.... is the torque converter suppost to come off with the engine? actualy, could someone please give me a step by step removal process of the engine from the tranny? the intake is off, most of the front of the engine is off, the rad stuff is off, its just the block and the heads right now. i can see two bolts near the firewall on the top of the car holding two wireharnes clamps in, do these also hold the transmission in?
and i can find only 4 bolts on the bottom of the tranny behind the torque converter, but they cant come out. do i have to remove the starter?
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Old 02-19-2002   #2
91GTA383
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Transmission removal

Yes you should remove the starter. I believe there are six bolts holding the tranny to the block. 2 on top and 2 on each side. These should be around the edges of the bellhousing not near the tc. The torque converter should stay on the transmission, however, you will need to remove the bolts holding the flywheel to the torque converter. There are usually 3 bolts holding the flywheel to the tc. I think the upper bolts do hold a bracket for wiring. You should probably get a haynes manual to get an illistration of what Im talking about. Once you remove the bolts make sure you support the transmission with some kind of jack so that it doesn't fall when you remove the motor.
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Old 02-19-2002   #3
89GTA
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Question bots

how do i get to the ones on the edges? from the bottom or the top of the car? and how do i get to the fly wheel bolts?
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Old 02-19-2002   #4
91GTA383
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To get the ones on the side you will have to be under the car. When your under the car look the the notch that lines up the tranny to the block(driver side I think). There is usually a bolt near there. To get the TC bolts you need to remove the dust cover from the tranny. A few small bolts hold it on. You will see the heads of the bolts on the inside(closest to the block) holding the flywheel to the TC. You may need to rotate the flywheel to get them in a position to remove them. Put tranny in neutral to turn it. The flywheel may move when you try to loosen the bolts. You will need to find a way to hold it till you break the bolt loose. This is what I did, Take a long flat bladed screw driver and put in between the teeth on the fly wheel. Wedge the other end the screw driver against something to keep the flywheel from turning. Probably not the best way but it worked for me.
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Old 02-19-2002   #5
Sparky
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One thing about the 3 bolts holding the TC to the flexplate: they are supposed to have loctite on them so they don't come loose. They are hard to break loose. The trick a buddy showed me is to put a wrench on the bolt and hit it a couple times with a hammer until the bolt turns. This cracks the loctite loose so you can remove the bolt. Don't forget to put Loctite on when you re-install the bolts. Other than that, 91GTA383 has covered everything. I try to put the screwdriver thru one of the holes in the flexplate rather than the teeth, you don't want to break any teeth off. Even after you remove all 6 bolts holding the engine/trans together, there are dowel pins that align the engine and trans. Use a flat screwdriver first to separate them, then use a pry bar to gently pry them apart. You will have to do this on both sides. Did you take the hood off yet? You either have to remove the hood or the front of the body to get the engine out. The best place to hook the chains to lift it, is to use the accessory holes in the heads. I have a leveler that I connect to all 4 corners, and I turn the handle to tip the engine as needed. That is one of the best tools I bought. I got mine for $40, but you might be able to rent or borrow one. With the leveler, I can pull the engine and trans together without too much trouble. Good luck and let me know if you need more advice.

Matt
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Old 02-19-2002   #6
Red88GTA
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I am really going to watch your thread.. When I did my rebuild, it was soo much easier to just pull the tranny with the engine. I am very interested to see how you make out getting those bolts holding the tranny to the block out. I had my distributor removed and the oil pressure sending unit and by the time I got the tranny as far down as I could to get the top bolts from underneath, I gave up. Besides, i wanted to replace the seals and do a good fluid change in the process. If you are going to remove the engine separately, just get all the front accessories off so you can climb into the engine compartment and neal over to get the bolts out. It's still really tough. I didn't have a leveler, but the engine/tranny came out pretty easy all in all.

Pat
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Old 02-19-2002   #7
89GTA
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Talking engine removal

wow, so im takein the hard route huh? any idea on what size wrench is needed to remove those top tranny bolts? cuz i have alota wrenches and none of them seem to fit. exactly how much easyer is it to remove the engine and tranny at the same time? i really dont want to screw something up. ive removed that dust cover, and im not sure what dowel pins you are talking about. is there anything i should watch out for that i might brake when lifting the engine out? im gona go take another look under there in a bit, but man... that space is really cramped and the bolts are really hard to find
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Old 02-19-2002   #8
89GTA
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one more thing

oh yeah, and i have removed the hood, i bet its gona be fun trying to get it back on.... o well
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Old 02-19-2002   #9
89GTA
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jacked up

also, i have the engine on jack stands.... but they are on the part of the A-arm's that are closest to the nose of the car. its got this little lip that bends up so i thought MABEY that was a good place to jack it up. it still doesnt look very secure though
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Old 02-20-2002   #10
91GTA383
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Pulling Motor

If I remember correctly all of the tranny bolts are 9/16. The top ones are a pain because of the angle. Pulling the tranny with the motor isnt to difficult. Remove the tranny crossmember, undoe the torque arm, any linkage, wiring. Doing it without the tranny shouldn't be that difficult. The dowel pins will be located at the edge of the bellhousing. Looking at the bellhousing from the tranmission side you should see what looks like a hole in the bell housing with a peg coming through it. About 9/16 in diameter or so. To find the bolts start at the lower corner of the bellhousing. You should see a bolt in that area. The next one on that side should be directly above it about 5 inches or so, same on other side. When you actually go to pull the motor put the car back on the ground. Its more stable and it will be easier to support the tranny. If I had a digital camera I would show you where the bolts are. Maybe you can get someone to do that for you.
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Old 02-21-2002   #11
89GTA
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Talking stuff

hmmm i could only fit a 14mm socket on them, i just bought a 14mm wrench today (the one wrench i dont have) and it fits perfect anyway i didnt get my engine stand today due to massive rush hour line ups, but tomorow im gona sneak outa work early and beat the traffic so i can get to the store on time. im thinking about getting a stage 2 rebuild kit wich seems to consist of everything i think i need to replace (rings, gaskets, main berings, timeing chain) its a little more expensive than i thought though..... $295. stage 1 is like 100 dollars cheaper but it doesnt come with the timeing chain and whatever other timeing components it needs. so im guessing stage 2 deals with timeing and pistons, stage 3 deals with major problems like the crank, cam, pistons, rods etc... it was a whooping $789!!! man i guess its stage 2 for me. those top side bellhouseing bolts are a real ***** to get at no matter what tool u use.... the torque converter ones were so easy compared to these. anyways ill keep u posted on my progress (if i actualy make some this time)
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Old 02-21-2002   #12
Red88GTA
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89GTA

Yeah, those top bell housing bolts told me IMMEDIATELY that I was going to pull the tranny with it..

By the way 9/16" is the same as 14mm. Keep us updated on what method you end up pulling the thing.. Those prices on those kits is what got me also. I had frozen pistons since my motor had sat up with antifreeze in it. I did something I wish I didn't, but I had a reputable engine shop rebuilt it for $950 with a year warranty. I was looking forward to rebuilding it, but when I looked at the kit THEN go have the crank and block and head work done, I couldn't justify it. If the internals of this motor even burp once, I will be kicking myself profusely letting someone else rebuild it.
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Old 02-22-2002   #13
Bubba's89GTA
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I always thought that the torque converter bolts were 15mm. I have not yet had to pull the tranny in my GTA. One trick I have used over the years is to use a large set of vise grips on the fly wheel. Clamp it down and you will have something to pull against. Knowing my luck, I would surely rip a hole in my oil pan if I used a screw driver. Best of luck to ya on your project!!!!!!!
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Old 02-22-2002   #14
89GTA
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engine removal

hey, vice grips!! that woulda been a great idea.... but i got them off already. the top one on the side of the tranny on the drivers side was freaking hard to get at though. ok now all the bolts from the tranny bellhouseing to the engine are now removed, someone said something about pushing the torque converter to the back of the tranny or something before i hoist it on outa there. besides removeing the engine mount bolts, is there anything else i should do? and what can i do to keep the pistons/engine block from rusting?
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Old 02-22-2002   #15
OkadaKimC
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Preventing rust....spray lightly with oil, cover with large plastic bag, inside bag place at bottom a couple of large bags (perforated) of rice. The rice acts as a desiccant.
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Old 02-22-2002   #16
89GTA
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Skull & Crossbones rice....?

im gona be workin on it every day if possible, it seems like alot of work to stick a "rice" bag on there every time i finish. but hey i guess if it works ill give it a shot.
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Old 02-22-2002   #17
Bubba's89GTA
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by OkadaKimC
Preventing rust....spray lightly with oil, cover with large plastic bag, inside bag place at bottom a couple of large bags (perforated) of rice. The rice acts as a desiccant. [/QUOTE

Is that why imports never rust????????

Sorry, had to add that, it's been one of those days
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Old 02-22-2002   #18
89GTA
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heeey

so how about that whole torque converter thing huh? id like to know its safe to remove the engine b4 i screw something up. do i or do i not push the torque converter back into the transmission. personaly i dont even see how this is possible, but hey im open to suggestions here. ill try the rice bag trick once i get the engine safely on the stand. all bellhouseing bolts are removed, engine mounts are removed, and thats ALL i have done, so what do i do now?
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Old 02-23-2002   #19
Bubba's89GTA
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Go ahead and push the torque converter back and support the transmission with a floor jack. Sometimes it helps to jack up the tranny a little to ease in seperation from the block and from the motor mounts. Just make sure you use a tranny jack or substitute a 2X8 to ensure that even pressure from the jack is distributed across the tranny. Start lifting on the cherry picker and work the engine out.
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Old 02-23-2002   #20
89GTA
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Talking cherry picker?

um... am i like... the only one here who calls it an engine hoist? i think that thing could probly pick a cherrry tree, let alone an engine.
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